Sunday, October 27, 2013

Secret Pockets Part 2 - Velcro Patch Pocket on Knit

Welcome to my 2nd post in the series about adding "secret" pockets to clothes.  I am sharing with you how I add pockets to my daughter's clothing so that she can safely and discreetly carry her insulin pump.  You can read more about that in first Secret Pockets post.  Of course, these pockets can be used for anything.

Tutorial - Velcro Patch Pocket on Knit 

Today, I will show you how I add a pump pocket to the inside of ready to wear fleece footie pajamas.  We love these pockets because they are:

  • comfortable, soft knit against her skin
  • keeps the pump completely secure so it doesn't get "lost" in her bedding
  • prevents the tubing getting wrapped around her while she sleeps
  • it's "secret" - not so important with PJs, but you never know when a slumber party will come up

In this tutorial, I will be adding two pockets to the inside of some store-bought footie pajamas.   She requested two pockets so that she can move her pump from one side to the other as needed. The dimensions of the pockets are perfect for an insulin pump, but you can make them any size you wish.

Because I do not maintain an inventory of shocking pink monkey printed fleece, I just grabbed some interlock knit fabric that I had on hand.  I love that the pockets don't show at all, so they don't need to match.

As with the zippered knit patch pockets, I used tricot knit interfacing to add body and stabilize the knit and sewed them onto the garment with a 3-step zig-zag.

The materials you'll need are:
  • knit fabric scrap
  • fusible tricot (knit) interfacing scrap
  • 4 inch piece of 3/4" wide hook and loop fastener such as Velcro

A note about knit interfacing.  As you can see, it a nice amount of stretch.  This allows it to add body to your knit fabric without eliminating all the stretch.  You can use regular interfacing, but keep in mind that the pocket will have no stretch.  In this application, that is probably fine.

Step 1: Cut a 6" square from your knit fabric for each pocket. I'm a scissors girl, so I just use my ruler to draw the squares directly on the fabric.  I'm sure I hear gasps from all my rotary cutting friends.  (I am cutting the knit fabric for 4 pockets in this photo.)

You'll also need to cut a 6" square from tricot interfacing for each pocket.

Step 2:   Lay the interfacing on the wrong side of the pocket with the adhesive side down and fuse according to the manufacturer's instructions.  Before you fuse, make sure that the two fabrics are aligned so that their stretchy direction is the same.

Step 3:   Fold the top edge of the pocket to the wrong side by 1" and press.  Remember, the stretchy direction of the pocket is from side to side.

Step 4:   Pin and stitch the SCRATCHY side of the 4" long hook and loop in the center of the folded section of the pocket.  It is important to put the scratchy side on the pocket, so that it cannot scratch the wearer's skin.

Step 5:   Turn under and press the remaining three sides by 1/2". 

Now your pocket is ready to sew onto the garment.

Step 6:   Turn the pajamas inside out.  Align and pin the SOFT side of the hook and loop to the wrong side of the pajama front, where you want the pockets to be.  In this case, I located them just below the wearer's waist on each side of the pajamas.  Be sure that you don't pin through the back of the PJs.  It helps to put a hand in between the layers as you pin.

Step 7:  Now turn the pajamas right side out, but leave the zipper fully open.  Open up the pajamas so that the side you the hook and loop that you are working on is facing up.  Be sure that the sleeves are out of the way before you start to sew.

Sew around all four sides of the hook and loop.  That monkey looks worried about her leg!

Step 8:  The great thing about using a hook and loop closure is that you can use it to align your pockets.  Attach the pocket to the pajamas using the hook and loop strip.

Pin the remaining 3 sides to the pajamas and sew using a 3-step zig-zag.

You may find it helpful to reduce the presser foot pressure for this step.  This is helpful when sewing thick or knit fabrics.  In this case, you'll have both.

And there you have it - a comfy secret pocket in fleece footy pajamas.   Here's how they look from the outside:

I don't have a photo of them modeled, so you'll just have to take my word for it - she was very happy and smiling when she tested these out.